self-reference


Sid Mashburn Kincaid no. 3

Words and photography, Jesse Jackson IV | jesse@ndlo.co

2018

Upon completion of my first made to measure suit, I went a little crazy. Having delved deeply into the world of classic menswear, reading whatever literature was available from titans like G. Bruce Boyer, David Coggins, Alan Flusser, and Simon Crompton, I was eager to start flexing some of my mental muscle on the full breadth of customization available to me.

As with many of these projects, one starts with the fabric; in this case, I selected what may remain my favorite bunch thus far, a Loro Piana blend of 85% wool, 10% cashmere, and 5% silk that has a beautifully subtle sheen, a soft hand, and retains a great deal of warmth - of course, it being fully lined contributes to the warmth retention as well.

As far of the structure of the jacket itself, the guardrails in place when making through Sid Mashburn were both a saving grace and a source of some slight frustration. For example, I requested a center vent for the jacket - when it came back, it was made with side vents. (Given my frame, that worked out for the better for me!) On the other hand, I was unable to change the button stance, which again, given my frame, may have added additional balance to the jacket. may have wanted to widen the lapels, but as mentioned, working from specific models helps ensure brand consistency.

You want to make an NFT of what?
Hermes H
Oh, well for that much...
2022

Very little has changed about this garment, for me. Still eminently wearable and incredibly flexible, dressed up with trousers or made more casual with paint splattered jeans, as shown here. The one thing I’ve changed in subsequent commissions of double breasted jackets is the button stance, as I’ve found a wider stance beneficial for broader shoulders.

Fin